Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Notes to a friend on traveling in Asia

The main difficulties in traveling alone in Asia have to do with security and getting led down paths by locals with the best intention to make money off of you. Sometimes it is more than that.

Once a small group of my friends held off a huge pack of Indian thieves at a major train terminal by stacking all the suitcases in a pile and stretching out in a circle around them. They told me later it was just like dealing with wolves. The rest of the group had gone off to get some food; I had a bad feeling about it that proved true, although in the great Buddhist tradition, nobody complained.

Most importantly as a Buddhist are you going to the 4 or the 8 holy sites of Lord Buddha? I don't mean to get all high and religious sounding but - going all 8 of the holy places is probably the first priority for anyone going to Asia in my not-too-humble opinion. Traditionally one is not suppose to "over sell" the holy sites and let everyone find their excellent qualities on their own.

Most people have favorites among the sites, for example where Buddha was enlightened, born, meditated, and was cremated are mine in that order. The place he was cremated is know for its swarms of different kinds of bugs - I kid you not. There being careful about the anti-malaria meds and skin cream and nets is very important.

What countries are you planning on going to? By that I mean do you have a set plan? Are you staying in hotels where people are meeting you?

Whether traveling with a bunch of pilgrims or alone, I would definitely check in with the most competent and famous tour service in Asia, a man who caters to the stars, but prefers the Pilgrims. In other words if you don't have the capital to pay him for services still make him aware you are traveling through Asia on the Buddhist path. If you get in trouble, I would call him first and then the American consulate.

He is a Tibetan Lama named Trinley. His company is Middle Path Travel, he tours the holy places 22 times a year and is a complete crackup- total business man at the same time.
Middle Path Travels Pvt. Ltd.
#707, Rohit House
Shop #3, 7th Floor
Tolstoy Marg, Connaught Place
New Delhi H.O.
Delhi-110001
Landmark: Near Hansale Hotel
Phone: 011-23710647, 011-23316048

You may or may not smoke weed and so forth. If you don't smoke while on pilgrimage nor drink this is first rate. However if you do, be absolutely sure you know whose company you are in. Same for sex; no sex for the pilgrim.

Near where Buddha was born there have been Westerners killed in the street.

Near the protector's cave a few years ago a Tibetan nun was killed for what they thought was her money bag - it was her prayer book. That is outside by several miles where Buddha meditated in the fields living off of poop and grass and nearly starved himself to death. When I went there with a large troop of people our cars and bus was attacked. The people were unbelievably poor. I am not a tall person and I had to threaten them to keep them off of me while we were giving away money. Things are slightly better there now as some schools have been built.

But you really have to watch out on the trains and in getting transportation. If you can pal up with other Buddhist tourists that is the best. I was once "moved" from one van to a tuk-tuk to person drawn wheelie thing (sorry my writing skills and spelling suck) until no-one would have known where we were. The person I was with was too trusting; I just kept saying to her "This is a bad idea" and she kept saying "no, no, it's ok" but it wasn't ok. Finally when we got underway and she was all relaxed, I said, you look all relaxed. Yes, she said, then I shouldn't mention we are going AWAY from the market?

She took action like now. She began clobbering the guy over the head and I started figuring out how to get off the contraption. He was taking us to his "cousin's shop" very common practice along the old silk route.

However when you check your gut and things seem good you have to take some chances - I bought some wonderful silks doing that.

Asia is like a different world circling a different solar system - never but never apply American standards to behaviors there. Keep your wits about you. Do not let them down.

Always have small cash available to you without digging through stuff. Never flash large cash to anyone, and keep some "backup" stash someplace else.

Just because someone is begging from you doesn't mean that they need the money. Go with your heart. There are begar kings who run kids and women - they hold babies and ask for milk. Do not promise you will do anything that you won't do or don't plan to do - don't ever lie.

If you can be generous do it. Do not agree to be ripped off. One thing - if you make a big production over something Asians respect that. Some locals may hate Americans but in general they respect the fact that we make a big noise when something goes wrong because they would rarely do that. Thailand is heaven.

Most Asians are honest perhaps a bit innocent compared to Americans - but in a place like Cambodia - they've seen it all.

That's all for now. I have a terrible flu and can't seem to ditch it which is why I am up. I am relocating to Mexico because I have run out of money and can't find a job.

If you have to go to an American embassy remember they are run by foreign nationals - they control the place - if you need help - absolutely refuse to leave. Often they hate the folks they serve and will do anything and everything they can to screw you there. Make demands - it does not matter what they "think" of you. It matters that your needs are met. Yell - claim that your uncle is President Obama whatever you have to do. Keep a list of the embassy and phone numbers with you.

It needs to be said upfront - the holy sites still have vibrations you can feel though all of history in pools of loveliness.